Molokai: The Island That Stays Itself
Molokai has no resort strip and few visitors, and many residents like it that way. Come as a guest: slow down, stay on public land and spend money locally. The reward is an island that feels like old Hawaii.
Kaunakakai
The main town, with a long wharf, a bakery, a few shops and the island’s modest services.
The east end
A slow coastal drive past fishponds, churches and small beaches toward Halawa Valley. The valley’s trails cross private land; visit only with a local guide.
Papohaku Beach
One of the longest white-sand beaches in the state, on the quiet west end. Often empty, often with dangerous surf.
Kalaupapa
The peninsula where people with Hansen’s disease were exiled is now Kalaupapa National Historical Park. Public tours are paused (July 2026); residents’ privacy comes first.
Services are limited, so bring medicines and plan meals and fuel. See Molokai Planner for where to stay and eat.
Lanai: One Town, Many Dirt Roads
- Lanai City: a cool upland town built around a park shaded by tall pines, with a few shops and restaurants.
- Keahiakawelo (Garden of the Gods): a strange landscape of red earth and boulders, reached on unpaved roads; rent a four-wheel-drive vehicle and check road conditions.
- Kaiolohia (Shipwreck Beach): a windswept northern shore with a rusting wreck offshore; not a swimming beach.
- Hulopoe Bay: a protected Marine Life Conservation District with good snorkeling on calm days, next to the island’s resort.
See Best of Lanai for the island’s full guide.
Getting There and Around
Both islands are reached by small plane, and Lanai sometimes by ferry from Maui; schedules change, so book flights early and confirm. A rental car is essential on Molokai, and on Lanai a four-wheel-drive vehicle opens up the dirt roads. Fuel, food and lodging are limited on both, so plan each day before you set out and carry water.
Being a Welcome Guest on the Small Islands
- Book lodging before you arrive; there are few choices.
- Respect private land and gates; much of both islands is privately owned.
- Fish, hunt and gather only where and as the law allows, and leave cultural sites untouched.
- Expect slower service and fewer options, and enjoy it.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can visitors go to Kalaupapa on Molokai?
Not at the moment. The National Park Service paused public tours to the Kalaupapa peninsula in July 2026 while it reassesses visitor access. Check the park’s website for any change before you plan.
How do you get to Lanai?
By small plane from Honolulu or, when it is running, by passenger ferry from Maui. Ferry service has changed in recent years, so confirm the current operator and schedule before you book.
Plan Molokai or Lanai
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